East Coast Malaysia

We joined Sail Malaysia Rally to the East, which is a group of boats sailing loosely together and stopping at places along the way for cultural events. 

This year there are about 30 boats. We joined in Pangkor just south of Penang, after going on the slip to do the yearly anti foul and maintenance. 

I was in Australia at the time and Ken had Dean visit with him for a few weeks. They sailed the boat together south to Puteri marina where I joined them. 

Dean went backpacking to Kuala Lumpur and we headed out down the straits and around Singapore, there are hundreds of ships anchored and motoring in this area it is very busy. Everything was going well we had current with us, we were about half way around when suddenly a knocking sort of sound came from the stern...and we slowed down, we thought we picked up some rubbish on the prop...Ken jumped over to have a look and found the bush came out of the cutlass bearing so we couldn't use the motor, so we tacked in light winds avoiding the many ships. Ken also rigged up the 15 hp outboard motor and fitted it to the stern bracket that he had made which helped with a little more speed when we needed it.  Alan on Screensaver sailed along side us the rest of the way to the anchorage and we made it before dark.

The next day we had a bus trip with the rally to the local fisherman museum, a tropical fruit farm, Sebana cove marina and a kampung ( village ) for a delicious lunch and meet the locals, we had a great day in the bus seeing the countryside.

The next day we started sailing up the east coast of Malaysia, Ken jury rigged the prop so we could use the motor until we got to Tioman Island in the marina so he could fix it properly.

Sunset on an island on the way to Tioman

The local girls I met at Tioman.... They practiced their english and I practised Malay

Malaysian breakfast Nasi Lemak, 

One of the bay's where we anchored. Tioman is beautiful....tall mountains with lush green jungle and sandy beaches with clear water.

The rally had organised a games afternoon which was a lot of fun with the locals and afterward plenty of food.

Ken drilled and tapped underwater and put in four screws to hold the bush in place while we were in the marina, we topped up with water and fuel then headed out towards the coast. 

We stopped at Cukai a small town on the east coast and anchored in the river, the rally had another day out and we visited a zoo, turtle sanctuary, fishing village and a traditional high set timber house. We then had afternoon high tea on the beach and released some baby turtles into the sea.

After leaving Cukai we sailed to the islands further north and had a nice few days relaxing, swimming and sundowners.

Next stop is Kuala Terengganau... We tied up in the marina and walked around the town and markets. 

One of the laneways in KT

The rally dinner where we were presented with a piece of the local batik. We dined like kings with the variety and amount of food presented in the smorgasbord.

Our next stop was the most northern island we went to, Redang Island, has the clearest water and whitest sand so we saw many turtles on our way in to anchor.

A nice resort on the beach

And some fishing boats for a bit of character.

The next leg of our trip going east to Anambas and Natuna Islands Indonesia, we had a good trip sailing with a few other boats and arrived after 32 hours

After a good nights sleep in the protected harbour we were treated to a welcome ceremony ashore.

Beautiful Indonesian girls at the welcome ceremony.

The anchorage in the main town 

These boys paddle out to see us on a timber raft using planks of wood as oars

The people were super friendly, so many photos were taken while we visited their island because they don't have many western tourists. See the fresh fish hanging up for sale in the back of the photo.

Another view of the town....the mountains come straight down to the sea so a lot of the town is built out over the water.

Ken celebrated his birthday at one of the islands with our cruising friends, it was a pretty place to spend a few days exploring.

Pulau Bawa.....stunningly beautiful....we anchored in the protected lagoon on a mooring, we went snorkelling and climbed the hill for this shot.

There is a Eco resort being built.... The labourers carting cement and gravel.

We started at 3 am to sail east to Natuna but we motored all day and arrived at 6pm. The sea was as flat as this the whole way.

Ken caught this huge Barracuda with the biggest teeth....we released him.

Our arrival at the anchorage on Natuna Island, took half an hour to get off the beach because the locals wanted to take our photo. They were so happy to see us here on their island.

Fishing hut built in the water.

Coast line Natuna Island, it was great to explore the island and met the friendly locals, Ken took a family out to see the boat one afternoon and they gave us two loaves of bread and some snacks as the owned the bakery. Most people that live on the island are very poor and live in simple basic ...hut / small houses....the main transport is motorbike.

We island hopped for three days to Kutching Borneo and anchored in the river. The next day the rally bus took us into town to clear in....immigration, customs and harbour master, it took hours to complete with two buses full of cruisers, we took in the sights of the town, did some groceries and had dinner before getting back to the boat at 9 pm.

As we headed north up the coast we had a mix bag of weather and after four days anchoring off the coast every night we entered Miri marina after the worst night on the boat....we rolled so much Ken slept on the galley floor and I wedged myself in the quarter berth.

We spent a few days in Miri getting fuel groceries and bits and pieces, dinners out and a pot luck dinner at the marina then off to Brunei. 

The impressive mosque in Brunei

We anchored at the yacht club which has wonderful facilities, pool deck and restaurant. We did a city tour and saw the Palace, water village and museum. The standard of living here is much higher than Malaysia. Also the Brunei dollar is nearly the same as the Australian dollar

This is where we got fuel at 30 cents a litre..... Very happy with that. We anchored close by.

Next stop Labuan which is a duty free island so we stocked up with cheap beer and $ 3.00 bottles of gin.... Should have enough to get back to Australia now. 

After Labuan we sailed to Palau Tiga which is where the TV show was filmed....nice clear water and sandy beaches with a few cheeky monkeys who wanted to join us for sundowners.

The anchor winch was getting very slow and our next stop the luxury 5 star marina at Kota Kinabalu so Ken decided to pull it out and see what was going on.....the alloy adaptor plate was badly corroded 

and acted like a brake on the shaft so we had a new one made, which took longer than expected.

This is one of the resorts with the marina, there is another one one the other side so we were spoilt for choice which pool we would have a swim at. We ended up staying 10 days, it was so nice for a change

Ken enjoying a beer after a month on the dry.

Margaritas at sunset

We sailed one day and motored the next to round the northern tip of Borneo and headed east.

For the next three days we had strong winds on the nose which meant lots of tacking and avoiding the many reefs and islands in the area, I hated it as you take all day to get anywhere.

At the end of the third day we anchored near a sand cay with about 8 fishing huts

The people that live there came out in their small boat to trade with us....small crabs for kids clothes we had on board and other bits and pieces, we gave them plenty because they looked so poor

This girl wears the local sunblock on her face.

The afternoon storm was building and it started raining by 7.30 pm we had the buckets out so we could top up the water tanks, the storm seemed to be over and Ken was in the cockpit when we heard the loudest bang.... Ken looked up to see sparkling bits raining down from the mast....OMG we have been hit by lightning...totally shocked......then we wondered how much damage was done, we had to wait till morning. The boat anchored next to us also was hit.

Ken went up the mast next morning and found no VHF aerial, wind intstrument or anchor lights, we also discovered later the tuner box for the HF radio was damaged. 

We were lucky really as some boats have much more damage than that, the other boat had exactly the same damage so maybe we shared the strike.

Next stop was Sandakan, the yacht club had great facilities but the anchorage terrible with boat traffic and currents, some boats dragged anchor.

We took a trip out to see the park dedicated to the prisoner of war camp, very sad what those men went through, only 6 survived out of 4000. I also went to the Proboscis monkey sanctuary, these monkeys are only found in Borneo.

Tun Surakan Marine Park was our pick of the coast line, we stayed 5 days. We went snorkelling the water was very clear and we saw lots of small fish.....but thought the Great Barrier Reef was better.

A cruisers get together

The last port of call was Tawau close to the Indonesian border, the best yacht club so far, cool swimming pool, tennis court, Ken played with some cruisers, restaurant and large deck overlooking the  water. Unfortunately we copped two bad storms the first and second night we arrived, we dragged anchor and ran into our mates boat, lucky we didn't damage his boat, we bent our Bimini support that Ken was able to bend back into shape. We anchored further out next morning and survived the second storm that night so the anchor held for the rest of our stay.

The deck overlooking the water was the scene for the last rally dinner, the other boats are heading further east to Indonesia then some to Australia, others to Philippines or back to Malaysia. We met some great cruisers from all over the world and enjoyed the rally except for the hectic pace....we saw many great places by sea and by land.

We had a fun day out lunching and afterwards a relaxing massage.

Dancing on the deck at Tawau Yacht club..... Johnny one of the cruisers kept us entertained all afternoon with his awesome singing.

After all those sea miles, I need some land time.... I'm going to India for two weeks with Chelsea, and Ken is sailing to Philippines with a few other boats and I'll met him there when I return.

We have booked tickets to return home for a few weeks in December as Jenna graduates from vet science and we can spend some time with our family's and friends at Christmas. We hope to see as many of you as we can.

Take care of each other and enjoy life

Love Katrina & Ken 

Andaman Islands

Dear Family and Friends,

Here is the update for the new year....can't believe it's April already.....

Finally after four years we pulled the spinnaker out of the bag to see how big it is..... Ken has made some adjustments to get it to fly well.

We left Thailand in January and sailed in company with 3 boats to the Andaman Islands, it's about 360 nautical miles off the coast, the forecast was 15 knots which was a good wind strength for us but unfortunately the swell was all over the place and I was very sea sick for two days, lucky Ken doesn't get sick, the trip took us 3 days and 2 nights, I was very happy to be there finally.

They still use the old scales to weight fruit and vegetables

A local character at the markets

The British occupied the Andamans around 1900  using the islands as a base for ships in the area, also sending prisoners there from India and building the circular jail, after the Second World War England gave the islands to India. 

One of the many deserted beaches we walked on every afternoon

We both enjoyed the Andaman Islands....Ken for the fishing, he caught 41 for the trip...so he was very happy. I loved the culture, it's very different from ours, the people are incredibly friendly and that makes a huge difference to the trip when visiting another country. Here's a few highlights...

The 2nd day in Port Blair....the main town and where we checked in and out of the country.... 5 of us decided to walk to the old jail which was one of the few tourist attractions in the town, it was about 4k .....on the way we stopped for coffee at a small stall, an old man also sold betal nut out the front, all the men chew it.....its crushed betal nut mixed with lime and tobacco and rolled up in a leaf. We talked to the tuk tuk drivers, met some lovely girls who put flowers in my hair, saw the fresh water dam with water Lily's and people doing their washing.....many lines of white washing drying in the sun. Found a small bar with air con and cricket on the tv and enjoyed cold beer and indian snacks for lunch....we finally got to the jail at 2pm did a tour.....it was built by the British in early 1900. It has been restored and looked after, not like most of the other buildings we saw in the town. We bought some coconuts to quench our thirst prepared expertly by a man with a machete.....its very popular over there with the locals. We were amused by all the cows and goats wandering around the town..and apparently they all find their way home in the afternoon and are kept inside the sheds not outdoors like we do. 

Washing day Andamans style

The people were so friendly almost all had a wave for us and the ones that wanted to talk could speak some English so they asked where we came from...then Ken would say something about the cricket.....well they loved it and so did Ken.
The women's sari were colourful  and they wore flowers in their hair.....the school kids wore white uniforms and were neatly dressed....most men had a mustache and short back and sides and chew tobacco...I don't think we saw any smokers...all men spit and most wobble their head when they talk to you.

More washing...and it's so white

The not so good bits.....there is plenty of rubbish every where, holes and cow shit where you walk either on the road or footpath, not many toilets, plenty of buildings in need of repair. Very poor phone reception and no wifi. 

On Long Island is a village of 1500 people and we stopped there with Jepeda and Screensaver, it was also Australia Day and Indian National Day so the celebrations were happening on the village oval, all sorts of races and games of tug a war, football and volleyball were played, Erica and I joined in one game with the women....the oval was also popular with the donkeys cows goats dogs and chooks grazing on the grass, we had lunch and chai tea watching the games.....very friendly people and a fairly clean village we all enjoyed the day on Long Island.

The village on Long Island very happy people but very poor

As we continued north with Screensaver we planned to stop at a place called Rangat Bay, we didn't know if there was anything there but it turned out to be a small village and we heard music coming from the temple so we walked that way to see what was going on, then a man grabbed Kens arm and led us in, we first had to wash our feet and hands then he showed us how to pray to the gods....about 6 of them, we entered a concrete shed where five lines of men women and children where sitting on the floor eating lunch....the plate was a banana leaf, first you get a scoop of rice and then they come around with a big pot and dish out different curry and dahl, it was delicious and we ate with our hand....... The kids were polite and they all wanted their photos taken, everyone was very friendly it was an incredible experience we really enjoyed it.

Eating lunch with the local people at Rangat Bay

The food was good but no better than I have had in Penang...I was a bit disappointed. Because the islands are so far away from everywhere most of the food supply's are shipped in and also not many tourists go there so they don't cater for westerners.....so no coffee or chocolate etc. 

The islands we saw were very much untouched by man, the local species of trees are very tall and underneath them and along the beach were pandanus, cycads, palms, we also saw orchids in the trees....most beaches had a lot of driftwood and shells....we saw crocodile and turtle tracks and elephant poop, but none of the animals....although we did see deer on a few of the islands and the kingfishers had the brightest blue wings and large red beaks.

The Andamans are very different to what we have seen in Malaysia and Thailand so I'm glad we went it was an amazing experience. 

We had good weather for the sail back to the Thai islands of Ko Surin and Similans where we spent a week relaxing and swimming in the clearest water we have seen for ages.

My brother Phil and his wife Mel flew over to Phuket where we picked them up and took them sailing around the islands and down to Langkawi, we had perfect weather and we took them to our favorite places, we all had a great time.

We plan to cruise the east Malaysia coast then head across to Borneo with a rally of 30 boats in the next month, we are still enjoying our adventure and the boat is going well. Till next time take care x

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